Subsoil:

How thick should the Jiban soil layer be?

The substrate thickness should be adjusted to the planned arrangement and plant species. In most planted aquariums, we recommend a sloped substrate, so that the layer at the back of the aquarium is noticeably thicker than at the front. A thicker substrate layer improves root development, facilitates planting, and enhances the visual appeal of the arrangement.

Can the water be slightly cloudy after filling an aquarium with Jiban soil?

Yes, slight cloudiness of the water after filling the aquarium is a natural phenomenon, especially if the tank was filled too quickly or the water jet hit the substrate directly. The cloudiness usually subsides after several hours or even days of filtration. To reduce dust, fill the aquarium slowly, preferably by directing the water onto hardscape elements or placing a plate or saucer underneath.

Can Ganban power base be used as an undergravel substrate?

Ganban power base can be successfully used as a fertilizing substrate for gravel substrates.

Can I use Ganban power base alone without covering it with active substrate or gravel?

No, we do not recommend using Ganban Power Base as a top layer. The product is designed as a nutrient layer placed beneath the final substrate. Covering Ganban Power Base with a layer of substrate stabilizes the bottom zone, limits nutrient transfer directly to the water column, and facilitates a safe start-up for your aquarium.

After starting an aquarium on Jiban soil, can I immediately plant a large number of plants?

Yes, a large number of plants from the very beginning is very beneficial. Densely planting the aquarium helps stabilize the tank more quickly, reduces excess nutrients in the water, and reduces the risk of algae growth. We especially recommend using a large number of fast-growing plants during the initial phase of the aquarium's life.

Are frequent water changes necessary in the 1st and 2nd weeks of the tank's operation?

When setting up an aquarium with Ganban Power Base and Jiban Soil substrates, ammonium ion NH4+ will be released into the water at the very beginning _. ^In a new tank, where the nitrogen cycle is just beginning to function, ammonium ions can be a problem because they are not quickly oxidized to the harmless nitrate form NO3 _– ^as they are in a mature aquarium. In the first phase of the nitrogen cycle, ammonium ion is oxidized to the toxic form NO2 _– ^. This process does not require a large amount of oxygen ^, so the conversion of NH4+ to NO2 usually _proceeds ^smoothly . _In the second phase of the cycle, toxic nitrites NO2 _– ^are oxidized to the harmless form NO3 _– ^, but in this process, bacteria consume a very large amount of oxygen. If we do not provide adequate oxygen for the bacteria, toxic nitrites will accumulate, poisoning the entire aquarium, causing problems with plant and algae growth. To avoid the accumulation of NH4 ₊ ^and NO2 _– ^we recommend performing several water changes during the first few days of operation. It should also be remembered that the demand for oxygen is increased by, for example, fresh roots, decaying plant parts, and animals introduced too early.

Does Ganban power base contain plant nutrients?

Ganban power base contains a complex of macro and micro ingredients in easily digestible, long-lasting release forms.

Can Jiban soil be used in an aquarium without CO2 fertilization₍ Low Tech Type)?

Yes, Jiban Soil can be used in this type of aquarium. The most important thing is that the lighting is moderate. We recommend that fluorescent lamps not exceed 0.5W/L, and LEDs not exceed 0.2W/L. We also recommend daily use of Gen C

* It is also worth ensuring a low level of phosphates PO₄^3- in the water, a low level of phosphorus slows down the growth of plants, thus reducing the demand for the key ingredient, i.e. carbon.

Is Jiban soil suitable for breeding Crystal/Taiwan/Tiger shrimp?

Jiban soil acidifies the water and reduces GH and KH hardness, making it suitable for shrimp, especially Tiger shrimp, which prefer a slightly higher pH. However, it's important to remember that the substrate contains nitrogen in the ammonium form, so we recommend adding shrimp only after ensuring the nitrogen cycle is functioning properly and that NH4+ and NO2- ions are not detectable in the aquarium _. ^Dedicated substrates _and the entire line of shrimp breeding products, especially the Crystal/Taiwan variety, are being tested ^.

Can Jiban soil be desilted?

Jiban Soil can be desilted, but remember that the substrate is lighter than gravel and can therefore be more easily sucked into a gravel trap. We recommend desilting only during water changes. Do not use gravel traps that return water to the aquarium.

How to start an aquarium with Jiban soil?

If we want to use Ganban power base together with Jiban soil in the aquarium, we should:

• Sprinkle Ganban power base directly onto the glass/bottom of the aquarium
• Lay the substrate with a slope towards the front window - there should be more substrate at the back window, e.g. 5 cm, and the closer to the front window, the less, e.g. 1-2 cm.
• Move the surface directly away from the front and side windows by approximately 3 cm using, for example, a surface leveler
• Sprinkle Ganban power base biological activator Shōka bacteria directly onto the substrate
• Next, cover the Ganban power base with a layer of Jiban soil. Start by covering the gap between the Ganban base and the windshield. Then, cover the gaps between the Ganban base and the side windows. This will prevent the Ganban base from sliding down towards the windows. Only after this should the Ganban power base be covered and the Jiban base be spread, sloped down towards the windshield, to cover the Ganban power base
• After laying the substrate, we start laying the decorative elements/hardscaping.
• When the arrangement is ready, sprinkle the substrate generously and wait for about 20-30 minutes
• After wetting the substrate, we start planting the plants.
• The final step is to fill the aquarium with water. This should be done very gently and slowly. It's best to fill the aquarium with a hose of a moderate diameter, allowing the water to gently flow over the landscaping elements, such as roots or stones. You can also place a small plate or saucer under the hose.

Why do Sosei Caps capsules float/float?

If applied incorrectly (too shallow, at an inappropriate angle), the capsule should float out and be reapplied. This prevents the capsule from dissolving and settling on the substrate.

CO2 and lighting

When dosing CO2, should the aquarium be aerated at night?

This is beneficial in many aquariums. Nighttime aeration improves oxygen conditions and supports the functioning of the tank's biology, especially if the aquarium is heavily planted, intensively fertilized, or has fresh substrate and plenty of organic matter. However, it is important to maintain the stability of the entire system.

Does shortening the photoperiod always help with algae?

While not always, it's often a good supplementary measure during the aquarium stabilization phase. Reducing the light exposure time reduces metabolism and nutrient uptake, giving plants a chance to regain balance. However, it doesn't solve the problem on its own. Fertilization, CO2 levels, filtration, and overall tank hygiene should also be checked.

When is the best time to turn on CO2 before turning on the lights?

In most aquariums, it's a good idea to start CO2 about 30-60 minutes before turning on the lights so that the plants have access to adequate carbon from the beginning of the photoperiod. This makes it easier to maintain stable conditions throughout the day and reduces the risk of carbon deficiency in the first few hours of lighting.

Should CO2 be turned off at night?

Yes, in most cases, we recommend turning off CO2 at night. Plants don't photosynthesize in the dark, so supplementing with CO2 isn't beneficial and can actually worsen oxygen levels in the aquarium and hinder the activity of microorganisms.

Can you keep a planted aquarium without CO2?

Yes, a planted aquarium can be maintained without additional CO2, but lighting, plant growth rate, and fertilization must be adjusted accordingly. The calmer the tank and the more moderate the lighting, the easier it is to maintain stability without a CO2 system.

How can I tell if my CO2 levels may be too low?

Too low CO2 levels most often manifest as slower plant growth, diminished color, poorer nutrient uptake, and increased susceptibility to algae blooms. Very often, the problem isn't a complete lack of CO2, but rather its instability throughout the day.

How can I tell if my CO2 levels may be too high?

Excessive CO2 levels can result in fish panting at the surface, lethargy, reduced activity, and a decrease in overall fish comfort. In such cases, it's important to quickly check the amount of CO2 being supplied, the water surface movement, and the correctness of the entire system settings.

Filtration and care

How often should you clean the filter in a planted aquarium?

The frequency of filter cleaning depends on the type of filter, the number of fish, the type of filter media, and the rate of contaminant accumulation. The filter should be cleaned neither too infrequently nor too frequently. Too infrequent servicing can restrict flow, while too frequent servicing can destabilize biological filtration. It's best to monitor filter performance and media condition.

Should the entire filter be cleaned at once?

We don't recommend overly aggressively cleaning all media at once. In many cases, it's better to limit yourself to the mechanical part, leaving as much of the stable biological media as possible untouched. This allows for greater stability in the nitrogen cycle.

Can the biological filter be turned off while the preparation is being administered?

A biological filter can only be temporarily turned off when required for a specific maintenance procedure, and only if done briefly and consciously. Turning the filter off for too long can worsen conditions for nitrifying bacteria and weaken the aquarium's biological stability.

Do dirty filter media always need to be cleaned immediately?

Not always. Filter media should be cleaned only when they actually restrict flow or impair filter performance. Too frequent and excessive maintenance can be as detrimental as no maintenance at all, so cleaning should be tailored to the aquarium's condition and filtration efficiency.

Is a mechanical filter alone enough for a plant aquarium?

In most cases, no. A planted aquarium requires not only the capture of mechanical pollutants but also stable biological filtration. Biology is responsible for the proper functioning of the nitrogen cycle and the safety of the entire tank.

Does a drop in filter flow always mean the filter is too weak?

No. A drop in flow often indicates contamination of the filter media, hoses, or impeller components, not filter failure itself. Before concluding that the filter is too weak, it's worth first checking its technical condition and degree of contamination.

Is it worth using a skimmer all the time?

This depends on the aquarium. A skimmer can effectively improve water surface movement, reduce organic film, and promote gas exchange, but it doesn't have to operate at full capacity constantly in every tank. The most important thing is to observe the water surface and the reactions of animals and plants.

Does aeration always weaken the effect of CO2?

Aeration can increase gas exchange, but it doesn't always have to be a problem when running a CO2 aquarium. In many situations, especially at night or when bioload is high, additional aeration is beneficial and improves the stability of the entire system.

Mineralization:

Should Ishiko plant mineralizer be dissolved in the container first and only then added to the aquarium?

We recommend pre-dispersing the mineralizer in the water, which will help the minerals dissolve even faster in the tank. Ishiko plant mineral is highly soluble, so you can also administer it directly to the aquarium near the filter outlet; however, we recommend the first method. It's also possible to prepare a suspension that can be administered to the aquarium instead of granules. To do this, weigh 166g of mineralizer and top up to 1 liter with water. 10ml of such a suspension will raise GH by 5% and KH by 0.7% in 10 liters of water.

Why is Ishiko plant mineralizer in granular form?

The granular form of the preparation prevents fractionation of the ingredients, for example, during transport. Each Ishiko plant mineral granule has the same average composition, regardless of whether it is from the bottom or top of the package.

What GH should osmotic water be mineralized with?

In typically planted tanks where tropical animals that prefer soft, acidic water will be kept, we recommend using a low mineralization of 3-4 GH. Low mineralization of osmoregulatory elements allows plants to more easily absorb other nutrients at lower concentrations.

Is Ishiko plant mineral only suitable for RO water?

Ishiko plant mineral was created primarily for the mineralization of reverse osmosis water, but in practice it can also be used to correct excessively soft water. The key is to control the final GH and KH parameters and tailor the mineralization to the needs of plants and animals.

Can you mineralize water "by eye"?

We do not recommend mineralizing water "by eye." To maintain aquarium stability, always monitor final parameters, especially GH, and if necessary, KH and conductivity. Consistent water parameter changes are one of the most important elements of maintaining a stable aquarium. You can perform accurate calculations using the following calculators: Gen Calculator

Does higher GH always mean better plant growth?

No. Too much mineralization isn't always beneficial for plants. In many planted aquariums, lower GH facilitates the uptake of nutrients from the water. Too many osmoregulatory ions can hinder the absorption of other elements by plants, so mineralization should be tailored to the aquarium type.

Can I prepare a larger amount of mineralized water in advance?

Yes, you can prepare a larger amount of water for storage, as long as it's stored in a clean container and protected from contamination. Before use, it's worth checking that the parameters are still as intended and that the water hasn't changed in smell or clarity.

Aquarium biology:

Why are bacteria not in liquid but in powder?

The bacteria contained in Shōka bacteria are in a state of anabiosis, or more precisely, anhydrobiosis. Research shows that in this form, the bacteria survive much longer than in anoxybiosis, i.e., in the form of aqueous suspensions in bottles. Sealing the bacteria in a bottle without access to oxygen causes a drastic decrease in bacterial activity after just two months from the date of production. Thanks to the nutrient content, Shōka bacteria begins activating the nitrogen cycle immediately after administration. The powder form also allows for the long-term preservation of the product's properties.

When is the best time to give Shōka bacteria?

It's best to administer Shōka bacteria when setting up an aquarium, after major water changes, after filter cleaning, after any significant maintenance procedures, and whenever you want to support the aquarium's biology. It's especially useful in the first few weeks of operation and after situations that may disrupt the nitrogen cycle.

Can you overdose on Shōka bacteria?

We don't recommend extreme and unnecessary overdosing of any product. However, in practice, a small increase in the bacteria dose usually doesn't pose a problem for the aquarium. Ensuring adequate oxygenation and stable conditions for bacterial growth is far more important than simply increasing the dose.

Why might the water become slightly cloudy after administering the bacteria?

A slight turbidity may appear temporarily after the bacteria are added and does not necessarily indicate a problem. This is usually a result of biological activation and the dissolution of the mineral carrier, along with changes occurring in a fresh or unstable tank. If filtration is functioning properly, the turbidity usually resolves spontaneously.

Can animals be introduced immediately after the aquarium is launched?

We don't recommend introducing animals too early. The nitrogen cycle isn't fully established in a new aquarium, so ammonium ions (NH4+) and nitrites (NO2–) can occur, which are dangerous and toxic to the aquarium population. Animals should only be introduced after ensuring the aquarium is biologically mature and the basic parameters are safe.

Fertilization:

Can several GEN preparations be used simultaneously?

Yes, GEN products can complement each other, but they should be selected based on the aquarium's actual needs. The most important thing is to maintain a balance between light, CO2, plant growth rate, and the amount of nutrients administered.

Do I need to use any other fertilizers when feeding Gen X?

This depends on the aquarium's nature, plant population, and growth rate. In some tanks, Gen X may be a sufficient base, while in more demanding aquariums, additional adjustments to selected ingredients may be necessary.

Should fertilization be increased immediately when deficiency symptoms appear?

Not always. Plant symptoms can result from both deficiency and impaired nutrient uptake. Before increasing fertilizer doses, it's worth checking CO2 levels, water parameters, root health, nutrient ratios, and overall aquarium stability.

Can I change fertilizer doses from day to day?

We don't recommend sudden changes. It's best to adjust fertilization gradually, observing the response of the plants and the entire tank. Sudden dose increases can destabilize the aquarium and make it difficult to properly assess the cause of the problem.

Do plants always respond quickly to fertilization adjustments?

No. Improvement after fertilization adjustments often takes time. Plants need several days, sometimes even longer, to show significant improvement in growth, color, and the condition of new leaves. Therefore, patience and avoiding too many changes at once are crucial.

Can I fertilize an aquarium where plants are still adapting after being planted?

Yes, but this should be done carefully. Newly planted plants often undergo an adaptation period and don't always absorb nutrients at full capacity immediately. During this time, fertilization should be adjusted to the plants' actual activity and the soil type.

The Gen BG/Gen FE fertilizer has turned darker/black. Has it lost its effectiveness and is it safe to use?

Darkening of Gen BG and Gen Fe preparations is a natural phenomenon. The preparations do not lose their properties and can be used safely.

What are the concentrations of the preparations? What are their compositions?

The composition of each product is a company secret. You can calculate the ingredient concentrations using the calculator available on our website: Gen Calculator

Can Sosei caps be used when setting up an aquarium?

If the aquarium is set up with Ganban Power Base and Jiban Soil, we don't recommend using capsules initially, as their addition can cause nutrient accumulation. However, if the aquarium is set up with Jiban Soil alone, capsules can be added in areas where densely planted, fast-growing plants will be present.

Does Gen N contain only nitrate nitrogen?

Gen N contains nitrogen in the form of nitrates, ammonium, and organic forms. The product works in stages. We do not recommend administering the product to immature tanks where the nitrogen cycle has not been completed. Fertilization can begin between the 2nd and 4th week of operation, depending on the aquarium's condition.

Does Gen BG contain iron?

The Gen BG preparation contains a complex of microelements which also includes iron in a stable and easily absorbable form.

Do the preparations in large and small packages have the same composition and concentration?

The products in large and small packages have the same composition but different concentrations. The products provide the same values ​​if we use the recommended values ​​on the packaging – 1 click/100L for a large bottle (400ml) is the same as 1 drop/5L for a small package (30ml).

When to start fertilizing in a new aquarium?

The timing of fertilization depends on the aquarium type, number of plants, substrate, and the initial setup. In aquariums with fertile substrate, fertilization should be introduced carefully, gradually, and only when plants begin to actively grow. Starting intensive fertilization too soon can lead to nutrient accumulation and algae problems.

Do all fertilizers need to be dosed daily?

Not always. Dosing should be adjusted to the type of aquarium and the plant's growth rate. Some preparations are best administered daily in smaller doses, while others can be administered less frequently. The most important thing is to maintain stability and monitor the plants' reactions and water parameters.

Do plants also require fertilization in low light?

Yes, but usually in smaller quantities than in aquariums with intense lighting. Plant nutrient requirements are directly related to growth rate, which depends on factors such as light, CO2, and temperature. In an aquarium with moderate lighting, fertilization should be more moderate and conservative.

Can I combine fertilization into the water column with capsules into the substrate?

Yes, but it should be done judiciously. Fertilizing the water column and the root zone can complement each other very well, but excess nutrients in both zones simultaneously can lead to destabilization of the reservoir. Fertilization rates should be adjusted to the plant mass, soil type, and growth rate.

Water parameters

Is low KH always a problem?

Low KH can be perfectly normal in aquariums, especially planted aquariums with soft water, especially those with active substrates and RO water. The problem only arises when a low buffer is combined with excessive CO2 dosing, which can result in rapid pH fluctuations.

Is high GH always harmful to plants?

Not always, but the higher the GH, the more difficult it is for plant parts to absorb certain nutrients from lower concentrations. In practice, much depends on the ratio of calcium and magnesium ions, the overall fertilization method, and the type of aquarium being maintained.

Is it worth measuring water for water changes if the aquarium looks good?

Yes. Regularly monitoring the water used for water changes allows you to more quickly detect changes that haven't yet had time to affect the appearance of plants and animals. The stability of an aquarium often begins with the consistent quality of the water supplied to the tank.

Does pH alone tell you everything about water?

No. pH is important, but it shouldn't be assessed in isolation from KH, GH, CO2, and overall aquarium management. The same pH level can mean completely different things in different tanks.

Is zero NO3 always beneficial?

No. The absence of detectable nitrates doesn't always indicate ideal aquarium health. In many planted tanks, too low a NO3 level can limit plant growth and disrupt nutrient balance. What matters most is stability and the correct ratio of nutrients, not the pursuit of zero nitrates at all costs.

Does low PO4 always protect against algae?

No. Phosphate levels that are too low can limit plant growth and disrupt the uptake of other nutrients, which can also contribute to algae problems. Phosphorus should be maintained at an appropriate level and in the correct ratio to the rest of the fertilization.

Algae:

Does the appearance of algae in a fresh aquarium always indicate a fault?

No. In the first few weeks of operation, some algae growth may be a natural part of the tank's maturation process. The most important thing is to identify the type of algae, assess the water parameters, and check whether the problem gradually subsides as the aquarium stabilizes.

Does algae always mean over-fertilization??

No. Algae can appear both from excess and deficiency of nutrients. Very often, the cause isn't the amount of fertilizer used, but rather an imbalance between light, CO2, plant growth rate, and the availability of individual elements. Therefore, before reducing fertilization, it's always worth analyzing the entire system.

Why do algae often return after mechanical removal?

Mechanical algae removal only addresses the symptoms, not the cause. Unless the biological balance, fertilization, lighting, CO2, or tank hygiene are improved, algae will quickly reappear. Mechanical cleaning should be combined with improved aquarium management.

Does additional aeration at night help fight algae?

In many cases, yes. Additional aeration at night improves oxygen availability for nitrifying bacteria and the entire biological system. This can be especially helpful in freshwater aquariums, with high organic loading, or with NH4+ and NO2– problems.

A brown/tan coating on plants and decorations that can easily be wiped off with your finger. What is it and how do you deal with it?

Brown deposits, especially in the initial phase of aquarium operation, are diatoms. Diatom blooms are caused by a nitrogen cycle that is not yet fully operational. NH4+ ions, available to diatoms, _along ^with silicate ions, cause diatom proliferation. Contrary to popular belief, _SiO4 ⁺ ions are not directly responsible for excessive diatom growth. Only the availability of ammonium ions and the presence of silicates triggers their rapid growth. Diatoms can be controlled by following a few simple steps:

• Water changes (by removing NH4+ and NO2 ions , _we ^reduce the _demand ^for oxygen ^, thanks to which the bacteria convert NH4 ₊ ^and NO2- _to NO3- _faster ⁾
• Oxygenating the aquarium at night (the additional dose of oxygen accelerates the nitrogen cycle)
• After replacement, use of Shōka bacteria
• If nitrites NO2 _are no longer detectable in the aquarium, you can introduce Otocinclus affinis into the tank, which will help to quickly remove ^diatoms

Black Brushes on Plants: What Are They and How to Fight Them?

These are red algae, typically found in aquariums with too much dissolved organic carbon (DOC). Excessive carbon levels in the tank are caused by:

• Lack of regular water changes.
• Dirty filter media that has not been cleaned for a long time
• Overfeeding fish
• Dying, rotting plant parts
• Fresh roots
• Too much detritus in the substrate

To combat red algae, you can apply Gen C 15 minutes before a water change at a dose of 1 click per 5 liters. It's crucial to disconnect the biological filter and install a circulation head and aeration system in the aquarium before applying the product. 15 minutes after application, perform a 60% water change, then turn on the filter and administer Shōka bacteria. To prevent red algae from returning, eliminate DOC sources in the tank and ensure healthy plant growth. We recommend:

• Checking whether the CO2 dosage_is at the appropriate level for the lighting used,
• Checking whether the plants do not show any nutritional deficiencies – if so, ensure appropriate fertilization,
• Verification whether biological filtration is at the appropriate level; if the filter is significantly dirty, it should be cleaned,
• Removal of all plant debris along with desludging of the bottom,
• Cleaning the roots with a brush from the decaying fragments on the surface,
• Do not overfeed animals,
• Providing additional aeration of the aquarium at night,
• Regular water changes.

Green dots on windows and plants that are difficult to remove. What are they and how can you combat them?

These are point algae, usually caused by impaired micronutrient absorption. The most common cause is insufficient PO4 3- phosphates_in^the water relative to the amount of micronutrients being administered. To prevent green algae formation, reduce the micronutrient levels (lack of absorption) or maintain the current micronutrient dose while increasing the phosphate dose. Before administering phosphates, ensure that CO2 dosing_is adequate and that there are no other nutrient deficiencies. Among other things, Otocinclus affinis, Beaufortia kweichowensis, and snails can help control point algae.

Dark/black growths on plants and decorations resembling "horns" are not brushes. What are they and how can I deal with them?

This is Compsopogon, an alga that can appear especially when CO₂ levels fluctuate. However, our observations suggest that the level of nitrogen available to plants also plays a significant role. If it is too low, and carbon dioxide levels fluctuate, it can promote the rapid proliferation of Compsopogon.

To inhibit its growth, you can apply GEN C at a dose of 1 ml per 5 liters of water approximately 15 minutes before a planned water change. Before administering the product, it is very important to disconnect the biological filter and install a circulation head with aeration in the aquarium.

Fifteen minutes after applying the product, perform a water change of approximately 60% of the tank's water volume. Then, you can restart the biological filter and introduce Shōka Bacteria.

It's also crucial to maintain a stable CO₂ level during lighting and maintain an appropriate, stable level of nitrogen available to plants. Additionally, algae can be mechanically removed, and the use of Crossocheilus langei fish and shrimp can aid in combating Compsopogon.

Short green threads on plants and decorations. What are they and how do you deal with them?

Short green threads are Oedogonium. The cause of this algae is generally a deficiency of nutrients, primarily macronutrients. To prevent this algae, first ensure a stable CO2 level_adapted to the tank's lighting and ensure that the plants have adequate levels of other macronutrients. A general rule of fertilization is: the harder the water (i.e., the more calcium and magnesium ions), the more fertilization is necessary. We recommend using reverse osmosis water mineralized with Ishiko plant mineral and Gen BG up to 3-4GH, which facilitates the absorption of elements from lower levels. It's also worth ensuring that the tank has species that will help combat algae.